Homme Plissé Issey Miyake

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Issey Miyake Homme Plissé is a very unique take on luxury menswear, that, effortlessly combines comfort and style. The label revolves around one specific technique and fabric: micro-pleated polyester. They cut out oversized, boxy patterns, from seemingly traditional silhouettes, like long-sleeved t-shirts and trousers, from polyester. Afterwards they fold the fabric and pleat it in different patterns. The end result is an extraordinarily versatile piece of clothing. The original boxy shape becomes fitted due to the pleats, but stays very malleable. The pleats allow the garment to adjust to the shape of any body, while still emulating the sensational comfort of wearing loose and relaxed clothing. Meanwhile, the use of toned earthy iterations of grey, turquoise and black lets the Plissé shine, without being the only attractive element. Micro-pleating is a truly innovative technique, as well as the bedrock of Issey Miyake's Homme Plissé collection. But where exactly did the idea come from, and how has it evolved throughout Miyake's incredible journey as a designer? Issey Miyake is regarded as one of the greatest Japanese designers, alongside the likes of Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons), Yohji Yamamoto and the late Kenzo Takada. After graduating from Tama Art University in Tokyo with a degree in graphic design in 1964, Miyake worked in Paris and New York for a few years, before returning to Tokyo in 1970. He immediately started his own studio and began his journey into women's fashion. His collections quickly garnered international attention, which resulted in an expansion into menswear, fragrances and flagship retail locations in New York, London and Tokyo. In the 1980's, one of his colleagues came to him with the idea of pleating finished garments. Throughout the coming years he would start to perfect this new pleating technique, which he introduced in the Issey Miyake 1989 mainline collection. What seemed like a radical idea at first quickly turned into a new design ethos for Miyake, resulting in the women's clothing line Pleats Please. This new way of working with shapes and fabrics saw the creation of a collection of clothes that are a product in themselves, made with the unique “garment pleating” technique where materials are developed from a single thread and pleats are added after sewing the clothes into shape. These garments are uniquely functional and versatile; extremely light weight, wrinkle proof, compact, comfortable and stylish all at once. In an interview with Pin-Up Magazine Miyake said: "Clothing has a relationship to the body and, via the body, to the mind. They are inseparable. The space created between the clothes and the body is what interests me and communicates the most.” Although he doesn't personally lead the design efforts of his brands anymore, his philosophy still resides. He has never lost sight of the user in his process, and Issey Miyake Homme Plissé attests to that. The incredible pleated garments speak to the body and mind with a loosely floating, extraordinarily comforting and style inspiring voice of reason.