Reporting from Paris
A first timer's take.
At Paris Fashion Week, creativity wasn’t dead—at least not yet. As a first-timer, that was my gut instinct. My first full dive into the "real" menswear madness, and I was already picking my spots. Rasmus, our Buying Director had made sure to fix a line-up of some of the most exciting brands, while i was here. One of them, Meta Campania Collective, led by Jon Strassbourg, had my attention. The Paris-based brand’s take on modern luxury—a mix of sharp tailoring and understated, oversized knits and corduroy work uniforms—is hard to ignore. All this, made from the absolute best and most luxury fabrics in the world. The three days unfolded in a blur of showroom appointments, a show and hurried café stops.
One thing i learned about the city during Fashion Week, that stands out from visiting any other time—it hums with purpose and intention.
Paris Fashion Week, January 2025
24th, 25th & 26th
Auralee, 2. Arrondissement
Let Auralee teach you to love minimalism. Nothing about that changes for their A/W '25 collection. Stepping into their Autumn/Winter 2025 showroom, I was immediately struck by the brand's signature minimalist aesthetic, which felt both inviting and sophisticated. Designer Ryota Iwai's focus on personal style and his inspiration from "daily life" were evident throughout the collection. It felt rooted in the authenticity of individual style: one day, you're wearing a classic tailored suit with a sharp overcoat; the next, a blank T-shirt with a fleece pullover. The garments were a blend blend of structure and softness—cashmere jackets and leather coats, 100% silk fleeces and pants, as well as stiff raw denim jeans. A clear showcase that Mr. Iwai has mastered the craft of making the familiar feel exceptionally interesting.
Accessories provided a common thread that finished the idea: sleek leather belts, bags, and silk ties for one day, and a dad cap and backpack for the next.
Meta Campania Collective, 1. Arrondissement
For A/W ’25, Meta Campania fuses traditional British heritage fabrics with contemporary luxury thanks to the creative direction of Jon Strassbourg. Drawing inspiration from classic British materials like wool, corduroy, and, in true Meta style, cashmere, the collection excels at celebrating and showcasing these textiles in an elegant and timeless way. By pairing these fabrics with silhouettes that feel both sophisticated and relaxed, Meta Campania honors old-world artisans while introducing designs that genuinely feel original. The result this season? A collection that, for Jon—and by extension, the consumer—feels both nostalgic and fresh. These are pieces that feel contemporary but not trend-driven; luxury without being loud. And in this current moment of fashion, it feels like a power move.
I can’t talk about this collection without mentioning one of its most bold concepts: a cashmere-woven denim set. This is original—and predictably, extraordinarily expensive.
Auralee
Auralee
Meta Campania Collective
Meta Campania Collective
Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus A/W '25 Show, 9. Arrondissement
Inside a brutalist, industrial showroom located in the 9th Arrondissement Rei Kawakubo presented her latest CDGH+ collection. Walking in, my nerves were on overdrive. It's one thing to admire and appreciate something from afar, but being here, felt surreal. As the venue slowly filled up, Rei's husband, Adrian, walked around greeting all the front-row guests.
And as always leave it to the team behind CDGH+ to question everything you know about tailoring. Classic military uniforms, reimagined through the challenging and avant-garde eyes of Rei Kawakubo, with much of her signature asymmetry and her unreal proportions. Outerwear deconstructed and ripped apart, with the addition of colours, tartan patterns and pants turned into skirts. The most noticeably constant throughout the show: The Helmets. Each look sported oversized, sculptural headpieces, plastered with flowers and/or wrapped in colourful satin silk.
With each CDGH+ show, Rei is here to remind us that even in disorder, there is always a sense of purpose. Best of all, Rei invites us to be ourselves—this becomes impossible to ignore when you’re standing there, feeling utterly underdressed because you’re not wearing a cape, top hat, or a long pleated balloon skirt.
Thoughts from day one
As a newcomer to Paris Fashion Week, witnessing both Auralee and Meta Campania Collective's minimalism and Comme Des Garçons Homme Plus' maximalist style firsthand was a memorable experience. All three collection's emphasis on personal style and styling resonated. My gut feeling was right, creativity isn't dead–fresh perspectives on modern menswear still exists and is still evolving.
Saturday the 25th, January
Acne Studios, 10. Arrondissement
Acne Studios' Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, presented in Paris at their stunning 5-story showroom and Paris HQ, presents a new vision for the modern man, blending classic and polished aesthetics with more relaxed streetwear influences, all reimagined in "unusual" fabrics. Acne Studios themselves encapsulated this duality with the phrase "Dressed up or undone."
The collection featured tailored pieces like seventies-style flared trousers, button-down shirts, blazers and loafers, in contrast to unconventional pairings such as a tie-printed blouse, extremely cropped t-shirts, chunky leather boots and mid-length shorts. Along with more styles, prints and cuts of their iconic printed denim jeans. The idea? To highlight a man at ease in refined tailoring and more casual attire.
Sunday the 26th, January
Lemaire
Presented at their beautiful location in Paris, which functions as a showroom, studio, and in-house atelier, Lemaire’s A/W ’25 collection continues to focus on the essentials—and what Lemaire does best: making extremely wearable clothes. Each season feels like a wardrobe built around simplicity, elegance, and longevity, with beautiful details, both seen and unseen.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s design approach remains true to their minimalist philosophy and brand identity, creating garments that are timeless yet contemporary, with just enough of a twist to make every piece feel original and fresh. And this, I feel, is what Lemaire does best—season after season. As always, the color palette is subdued, with earthy tones like sand, taupe, and moss, complemented by softer blush and navy accents, along with deep shades of indigo blue, dark brown, and pops of colour like red or purple. Sleek loafers, dainty shoes, western-inspired boots, and slim sneakers were all part of this year’s selection. What stands out about Lemaire’s A/W ’25 collection is its focus on clothes that work in real life—pieces that can be worn day in and day out without losing their appeal.
In their own words: The show manifested the essence of the brand by celebrating the lives of real characters – their individuality, desires and sartorial needs.
By Jeppe Mols