PARIS MEN'S WEEK;
BUYING SS27 AND PF27

I won't bore you with another long story of getting to Paris.

So here's the short version: I stayed at my grandparents' house again, closer to the airport, and they once again insisted on making me breakfast at 4 a.m. Obviously, no one should fly to Paris on an empty stomach.

Now, if you don't care about great clothes, great colours, sweaty buyers and cold brews... you can probably stop reading here ;)

Auralee

COLOUR, COLOUR, COLOUR.
AURALEE SS27 WAS JOYFUL, FULL OF EASE, AND VERY HARD NOT TO LOVE.

Is how i started my show notes for Auralee, and getting to see and feel the collection changed nothing about that statement. I think. Still very joyful, full of ease, and very hard not to love. Once again the styling was done by Charlotte Collet, and once again it was absolutely gorgeous. With a show this well styled, i always think if it's trying to hide and compensate for the actual clothes. I know brands who do this, but with Auralee it's never case. The clothes are always so absurdly good. A lot of the latest Auralee collections has been inspired by daily life. The people founder and creative director Ryota Iwai sees on their way to work, walking in the park, anything really. This time it was quite the opposite. Ryota Iwai explained the collection as a three-part story: the anticipation of a summer holiday, the holiday itself, and finally what you bring back with you. The collection gradually moved from easy, desk-appropriate tailoring into relaxed holiday dressing, before ending with souvenir-like details such as beaded necklaces, ankle bracelets and crocheted bag charms. You don't come back changed- just renewed !

Meta Campania Collective

Meta Campania Collective continues to impress.

This season, the lookbook was photographed along the Normandy coastline, with a collection inspired by a landscape and destination closely connected to Creative Director and co-founder Jon Strassburg’s family history. Like all Meta collections, it presents a complete wardrobe built on ease, nonchalance and uncompromising craftsmanship. The brand continues to draw inspiration from the idea of an artist’s uniform — individuality, self-expression and pieces that work across occasions, seasons and collections. As a result, the collection encourages a more personal approach to dressing: mixing, matching and having fun rather than following old-school rules or prescribed ways of getting dressed. Of course, it’s all made in some of the most luxurious fabrics money can buy. Loro Piana silks and cashmeres, velvety corduroys, and leather jackets crafted from the same leather used for The Row’s Margaux bag — naturally finished with silk linings throughout. I think you get the idea.

And as I always say: yes, it’s extremely expensive, but if you can afford it — or choose to prioritise it — I don’t think you’ll regret it.

Ann Demeulemeester

For SS27, Creative Director Stefano Gallici continues to build on the house's DNA without turning it into nostalgia. Dark, romantic, rebellious, poetic — all words that have probably been used a thousand times to describe Ann Demeulemeester, but they still feel spot on. The collection was filled with beautifully cut shirting, tailored trousers, soft tailoring, sharper punk-inspired tailoring, and leather across almost every category: jackets, coats, trousers and vests. Naturally, there was plenty of black, but also dusty whites, faded reds and washed blacks. It occupies a rather special space. The clothes feel incredibly precious, yet somehow already lived in. Maybe like they've collected stories before you even start wearing them?

My favourite piece? The Napoleon jacket. A true Ann D. classic. Closely followed by the delicate loafers. Ann Demeulemeester definitely isn't a brand for everyone — and that's what makes it so special. The clothes are made entirely for the person wearing them, not for everyone looking at them. They have very little to do with trends or fitting into whatever is popular at the moment. To me, that's exactly why the brand continues to feel relevant. It has always stayed completely in its own lane, and 40 years on, while so many brands are fighting to be noticed, Ann Demeulemeester is still simply doing its own thing.

Satisfy

Great, straightforward collection as always. Fresh colourways, familiar silhouettes, and no unnecessary surprises. Only good ones ! Whether you're running 20k or simply appreciate well-designed sportswear that works for everything inbetween running and daily life.

Satisfy continues to sit comfortably between fashion and performance. Stay on the lookout for SS27- we have something special and very cool coming :)

Sororam

Our second season buying Sororam. A newly established brand founded by Hyunjoon Choe. It was born from a single uncompromising idea; one exceptional product per category. And dare i say for his first category, the Soo lives up to it. A shirt stripped back to its absolute essentials, available in different fabrications: cotton, linen, wool and silks. Give him a warm welcome - we're big fans ! And for those who are curious: trousers are the next category he's working on, expected AW27.

Salon C. Lundman

Another season of Christoffer Lundman doing what Christoffer Lundman does best: making clothes that, at first glance, seem beautifully simple, but reveal more and more the longer you spend with them ! Whether it's the beaded scarves, his signature slits running through the knitwear, or the double-collar shirts, everything is extremely understated and tasteful. Christoffer himself was wearing one of his blue bandana-collar short-sleeved shirts, tropical wool trousers and a pair of Birkenstock Arizonas. A look that, when done right, looks extremely OG. Luckily, Salon makes it a little easier. Tailored ecru denim, more Cariaggi cashmere knitwear, silk polos and great shirting once again lived up to Christoffer's idea of a complete wardrobe - clothes that work across days, seasons and occasions.

One last thing I have to mention. Up until this season, Christoffer was sewing every single bead onto the scarves himself. He only stopped because he quite literally injured his shoulder doing it. How can you not admire that level of dedication !

Also, the brushed cashmere cardigan with silver buttons in the first photo? BANGER !

Dries Van Noten

Always one of the appointments i look forward to !

Much like with Nina at Acne Studios it's not only because of the clothes, but because of the people ! Always enjoy catching up with Charles - our main point of contact at Dries, and one of the coolest, most tasteful and down-to-earth people in the industry !

The collection opened with a lot of soft pastels, beautiful prints and lightweight fabrics before gradually shifting towards deeper colours and richer prints better suited for the evening. A natural progression that made the whole collection feel like a day slowly turning into night.

Colours and prints has always been one of Dries Van Noten's greatest strengths, and this season was no exception ! They always make combinations that shouldn't really work on paper end up looking beautiful. There's no brand like Dries that makes you want to start mixing patterns and colours. Dries Van Noten is here, as always to remind you how exciting getting dressed can be !

Lemaire

Some brands spend every season trying to surprise you, chasing whatever is trending or whatever the industry tells you to wear. Lemaire has never been one of them. Instead, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran continue refining and sculpting an idea they've been working on for decades: making beautiful, wearable clothes that become part of everyday life. Precious pieces that are meant to be worn, not left hanging in your wardrobe. Lemaire is also one of those brands where, if you don't like one collection, you probably won't like the next. And that's a huge compliment. They don't compromise for anyone. For SS27, like several other brands this season, Lemaire explored the idea that getting dressed should feel intuitive rather than prescribed. It's a collection about curiosity, collecting things you love, and slowly building a wardrobe that feels entirely your own. That was presented in the show styling. Rather than presenting matching tailoring from head to toe, they mixed suiting in different colours and fabrics. They were simply having fun ! And that's what it's all about.

The collection continued to play with contrasting textures: soft cashmeres, coated cotton, light silks, translucent cotton voiles and more. Mostly in Lemaire's signature muted palette, complimented by beautiful colourful shirting and a real standout piece: a white and bronze almost glitter-like coated denim set. SICK !

Thirty-five years in, Lemaire is still doing its own thing. Making some of the best everyday clothes in the world, and making it look remarkably easy to be well-dressed.