Founded in Paris in 1988
Belgian designer Martin Margiela established the house in Paris in 1988 with a clear vision. From the outset, his approach was unlike anything else in fashion: he deconstructed and reworked vintage clothing sourced from the city's flea markets, combining these pieces with elements the industry had not encountered before. Early designs featuring unexpected materials and unconventional silhouettes represented a design practice that broke with everything haute couture had traditionally stood for.
Fashion shows took place in locations that deliberately contrasted with the glamour of the Parisian fashion calendar: disused cinemas, laundromats, and streets in the city's more overlooked neighbourhoods. This was not provocation for its own sake, but a clear statement about what fashion could and should be. That spirit has not faded over time. It remains a foundational part of the brand's DNA and shapes everything from cut and material selection to the way collections are presented.
Maison Margiela, also known as Maison Martin Margiela, quickly established itself as a reference point for anyone drawn to avant-garde and conceptual fashion with genuine substance behind it.
Nonconformity as design practice
The house's philosophy is rooted in deconstruction, reworking, and a sustained interest in the relationship between clothing and the body that wears it. Existing garments are taken apart and reassembled in new ways. Historical references are retrieved and reshaped into something entirely contemporary. It is a dialogue between what has existed and what might become.
The use of blank labels and a rigorous numbering system are themselves expressions of a design practice that consistently places the idea above the individual. The brand does not seek to appeal to everyone, but to speak directly to those who share the same curiosity about what clothing can do. This consistency is precisely what sets Maison Margiela apart from more conventional fashion houses and makes it a natural fit within Stoy's selection of high-end and independent labels.
The label numbering system
The numbering system is a central part of Maison Margiela's identity. Numbers run from 0 to 23, with each corresponding to a specific collection or product category. The circled number on the white label indicates exactly which line a given piece belongs to.
The number 0 designates handcrafted artisanal garments from the atelier line, while other numbers cover everything from womenswear and menswear to accessories and Replica-inspired designs. The system functions as an internal language, allowing those familiar with the house to identify a piece's origin and context immediately. It is unique within the industry and reflects the broader philosophy that everything carries meaning and belongs somewhere specific.
The Stoy selection
Our Maison Margiela selection spans womenswear, menswear, and accessories. You will find pieces that challenge conventional silhouettes alongside designs with a strong and recognisable character. The selection is updated regularly with new arrivals, and you can find designer footwear as part of the range. Complimentary gift wrapping is available on all Maison Margiela products. You can shop online or collect your order from our stores in Copenhagen and Aarhus.
From Martin Margiela to Glenn Martens
Martin Margiela left the house in 2009. His preference was to remain a designer rather than take on the role of creative director directing assistants from a distance. Following his departure, an anonymous design team continued the work without a single named leader, a deliberate expression of the house's belief in collective authorship over individual credit.
Today, the house is led by Glenn Martens as creative director. He carries forward the atelier-based culture, drawing earlier elements into new forms without losing what made Maison Margiela distinctive from the beginning. That continuity is not incidental. This is a fashion house that takes its own history seriously.
Frequently Asked Questions
What do the numbers on Maison Margiela labels mean?
Maison Margiela uses a numbering system from 0 to 23 to categorise its collections and product types. Introduced in 1997, the circled number on a garment's label indicates which line or category it belongs to. The number 0, for example, designates handcrafted artisanal pieces. The system is a central part of the brand's identity and serves as an internal language for those who know the house well.
What are Maison Margiela tabi boots?
The tabi boot is one of Maison Margiela's most recognised designs, distinguished by its split toe inspired by traditional Japanese tabi socks. The design was introduced by Martin Margiela and has since become a symbol of the house's boundary-pushing and experimental approach to design.
What is Maison Margiela's design philosophy?
Maison Margiela's design philosophy is grounded in nonconformity, deconstruction, and the reworking of existing references. The house operates through a dialogue between past and present, reinterpreting familiar elements and giving them new meaning. Authenticity, self-expression, and a sense of community are central values, and the brand focuses on the relationship between clothing and how it is worn rather than on conventional notions of luxury.
What is MM6?
MM6 is one of Maison Margiela's lines, corresponding to line 6 in the house's numbering system, which was originally dedicated to womenswear. The line now has a more accessible, experimental feel than the mainline, while retaining the same deconstructive design philosophy at its core.
Who is the current creative director of Maison Margiela?
Maison Margiela is currently led creatively by Glenn Martens. He has continued to develop the house's aesthetic, building on its atelier culture and craft-led heritage.
Can I buy Maison Margiela at Stoy?
Yes, Stoy carries a carefully selected range of Maison Margiela across womenswear, menswear, and accessories. You can shop online or collect your order from our stores in Copenhagen and Aarhus. Complimentary gift wrapping is available on all Maison Margiela products.
